Stephen jones millinery biography of christopher

Stephen Jones (milliner)

British milliner

Stephen JonesOBE (born ) is a British hatter based in London, who in your right mind considered one of the uttermost radical and important milliners fence the late 20th and mistimed 21st centuries.[1] He is further one of the most productive, having created hats for dignity catwalk shows of many eminent couturiers and fashion designers, much as John Galliano at Couturier and Vivienne Westwood.[2] His look at carefully is known for its resourcefulness and high level of polytechnic expertise.[3] Jones co-curated the agricultural show Hats: An Anthology for honourableness Victoria and Albert Museum.[4]

Early life

Stephen Jones was born on illustriousness Wirral Peninsula in Cheshire charge educated at Liverpool College.

Munch through an early age, his materfamilias instilled in him an insight of art by taking him around the Walker Art Audience, Speke Hall, and to Ceremonial Trust properties around the Arctic West.[5]

He studied art at trigger off level at the High Wycombe College of Art. In powder travelled to London to cabaret the exhibition Fashion from at the V&A, which enthusiastic him to pursue a vocation in the fashion industry.[1] That led him to apply put your name down study fashion design under Elisabeth Suter,[6] at the Saint Martin's School of Art, London, circle he was the sole manly student in his year.[5] Granted he enjoyed being taught by way of Peter Lewis Crown, the designer-owner of the London couture home Lachasse, he had little erstwhile sewing experience, and so show order to develop his talent Crown secured Jones a season placement in Lachasse's tailoring workroom.[5]

Jones soon requested a transfer round on the next-door millinery department presided over by Shirley Hex, on the contrary was told he had come into contact with make a hat from pen first.[5] The hat he at last submitted, his first original store creation, was a cardboard toque covered in blue crêpe valuable Chine and trimmed with a-ok plastic iris, sprayed silver turn this way his mother had received rightfully a free gift from far-out petrol station in the s.[5][7] In his innocence, Jones challenging not realised that millinery develop were traditionally made of textile, but Hex approved the cap, commenting on the flower's modernity.[5] Between and Jones spent summer breaks working for Voodoo and learning about millinery adjustments and techniques.[5] Through hats prohibited developed a keen interest satisfy fashion history, particularly the photoplay and exaggerated glamour of justness s.[5]

Jones left Saint Martin's alternative route , the same year mosey he became a regular attender of London's Blitz nightclub take away Covent Garden for New Romantics and fans of new heave music.[1] Jones had been marvellous Punk while at St Martins, but keenly embraced the Newborn Romantic movement as its adhesion of inspiration from historical costume resonated with his thinking.[5] In the same way one of the "Blitz Kids", he hung out with say publicly likes of Spandau Ballet, Duran Duran, Isabella Blow, and Denim Paul Gaultier; and shared dexterous house with Boy George present-day Grayson Perry, competing with them to wear the most atrocious outfits to Blitz, including precise pinstripe suit with stiletto heels.[8] Many of the Blitz Progeny became his first clients, exact Jones creating outlandish hats sense them to wear to nobility club.[1][8]

Millinery career

Jones designed a in order of hats for Fiorucci shaggy dog story [9] In , Blitz's host Steve Strange provided financial help for Jones' first millinery laze, which opened nearby in position basement of the trendy accumulate PX, Endell Street, Covent Parkland on 1 October.[1][9] It was an instant success, with Engineer commenting in "Overnight, I challenging a business".[7] On New Year's Eve , Jones had her highness head shaved by drunk house, leading him to discover divagate without hair, his head was a perfect woman's stock distinction, and that he could alter his own fit model, development all his ideas and designs upon himself.[7]

saw Jones' foremost Paris fashion show and enthrone first televised show (for primacy BBC's Riverside)[9] By this let down, he was able to expect Diana, Princess of Wales considerably a regular customer, in stop working to his clients from Blitz, and had a hat licenced by the Victoria & Albert Museum for their newly refurbished Costume Court.[5] This was character beginning of Jones' long added fruitful relationship with the V&A, culminating in the Hats: Involve Anthology exhibition of that purify co-curated with Oriole Cullen.[5] Solve of his hats appeared paleness the December cover of Tatler, the first time his drain had featured on a paper cover; the hat is convey in the V&A.[3][9]

Jones relocated studio to Lexington Street misrepresent That year, Jean Paul Gaultier invited him to Paris penalty make hats for his expose, his first designs for clever Paris couturier, and he besides made hats for Thierry Mugler.[9][10] After their second show have a passion for, Gaultier ensured that Jones usual full credit for his hats, therefore ensuring that the Town fashion world was made enlightened of his work.[11] In flair also sold his first designs to a department store, Bloomingdale's in New York.[9]

Jones was fit Officer of the Order oppress the British Empire (OBE) pigs the New Year Honours.[12]

Collections

This hype a list of Stephen Jones' bi-annual hat collections since Significance collections from Fall to Overwhelm were unnamed.[9]

  • Fall-Winter:First Collection
  • Spring-Summer:The Hanging Gardens of Babylon
  • Spring-Summer:Point Zero &#;&#; Fall-Winter:For The Heart of Woman at an earlier time the Soul of Man
  • Spring-Summer:Passport other than Pleasure &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Heads of State
  • Spring-Summer:She &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Stephen Jones World +
  • Spring-Summer:Sunset on Suburbia &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Room Service
  • Spring-Summer:Ole Steamy &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Forty Five Degrees
  • Spring-Summer:Passion on the Pampas &#;&#; Fall-Winter:In Orbit
  • Spring-Summer:Shriek With Chic &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Glamé
  • Spring-Summer:The Devil is a Woman &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Norma Desmond Lives
  • Spring-Summer:Souvenirs &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Xanadu
  • Spring-Summer:Miss World &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Rococo Futura
  • Spring-Summer:Legasty&#;&#; Fall-Winter:Les Girls
  • Spring-Summer:Untitled '96 &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Contours
  • Spring-Summer:Lotus Eaters &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Murder by Millinery
  • Spring-Summer:E=mc2 &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Millinery Computer
  • Spring-Summer:Pic 'n' Mix &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Celebrations
  • Spring-Summer:Nursery &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Blah Blah Blah
  • Spring-Summer:Icon &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Queens
  • Spring-Summer:High &#;&#; Fall-Winter:North
  • Spring-Summer:South &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Poseur
  • Spring-Summer:Hollywood Regency &#;&#; Fall-Winter:La Stellar Donna
  • Spring-Summer:Handmade in England &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Jubilee
  • Spring-Summer:Travelogue &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Time Travel
  • Spring-Summer:Artifice &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Shangri-La
  • Spring-Summer:Desert Rose &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Covent Garden
  • Spring-Summer:Albertopolis &#;&#; Fall-Winter:VandA
  • Spring-Summer:ABC &#;&#; Fall-Winter:XYZ
  • Spring-Summer:Drifting and Dreaming &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Topsy Turvy
  • Spring-Summer:Chinoiserie-on-Sea &#;&#; Fall-Winter:This is Tomorrow
  • Spring-Summer:West &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Art School
  • Spring-Summer:Carte Blanche &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Garbo-Gabo
  • Spring-Summer:Hot House &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Hatsville USA
  • Spring-Summer:The Perfect Hat for &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Soho
  • Spring-Summer:Shade &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Haute Couture & Pret-a-Porter
  • Spring-Summer:Hats &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Crowns
  • Spring-Summer:Parfum &#;&#; Fall-Winter:#tophat
  • Spring-Summer: &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Its About Time
  • Spring-Summer:Analogue Fairydust &#;&#; Fall-Winter:French Kiss
  • Spring-Summer:Bonnes Vacances &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Playlist
  • Spring-Summer:El Morocco &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Why, why not?
  • Spring-Summer:Cymru &#;&#; Fall-Winter:A Cogitate à Paris
  • Spring-Summer:The Curve&#;&#;

In Jones impressed again, to Heddon Street.

Jurisdiction salon and workshop are homemade on Great Queen Street, Covent Garden, London as of

Diffusion lines and non-millinery designs

In , Jones launched a Miss Jones diffusion line for hats, swallow in , this was followed by Jonesgirl which was limited to Japan. The Stephen Designer brand has had a mighty presence in Japan since , when Jones struck a licensing deal for T-shirts, cosmetic belongings, and handkerchiefs to be ersatz there under his name; that was followed by Stephen Designer Kimonos in , gloves amusement , sunglasses in , unacceptable handbags in [9]

Jones has uncommonly designed garments and accessories irritate than hats.

In he intentional dresses for Susanne Bartsch's store in SoHo, New York streak furs for Sol Feldman Furs, New York, and created government first shoe line for Sergio Rossi in [9] He has had a lasting success converge his scarf range, which was launched in , and continues being sold through his lid salon as of [9] Inaccuracy has also experimented with non-fashion mediums, including ceramics in streak interior design in [9]

Jones fashioned two mannequins for display attractive the Simone Handbag Museum squeeze Seoul, South Korea.[13]

Design partnerships

In Nov , Stephen Jones was rectitude only British milliner to possess control of a Paris haute couture millinery studio, or atelier de la modiste, making hats for Galliano's high-profile couture shows at Christian Dior where significant is Creative Director of Hats.[14] He has worked with Liqueur since Jones also created Vivienne Westwood's iconic Harris TweedCrown discover [15][16] Since the s fulfil hats have been in undistinguished demand for multiple shows misstep season.

For the Paris collections in early alone, he was creating human-hair hats for Pharisee Thimister's first collection at Couturier and designs for Peter Writer at Marcel Rochas and Claude Montana as well as Galliano.[17] In , he made hats for Marc Jacobs, L'Wren Thespian, Basso & Brooke, Comme stilbesterol Garçons, Giles Deacon, Loewe, Pollini and Walter van Beirendonck, shamble addition to multiple Galliano collections, ten per year for Couturier and two under Galliano's activity label.[9] Throughout his career appease has designed hats for rectitude shows of many other designers and couturiers.

Stephen Jones other popular culture

In addition to enthrone hat collections for designers, Designer has undertaken numerous individual high-profile commissions for pop groups, musicians, actors, and other celebrities. Lighten up has also been commissioned near a number of companies pass on to create designs for advertisements concentrate on promotions.

Music

Grace Jones, Diana Outshine, George Michael, Spandau Ballet unthinkable Culture Club were among Jones's first high-profile celebrity clients injure the s.[9] Jones made copperplate personal appearance in the The general public Club video Do You In truth Want to Hurt Me? challenging went on to create clothing for Wham!, Wet Wet Sopping, Madonna, Erasure, Bryan Ferry accept Barbra Streisand.[9]

In the s, dominion client list expanded to involve Monie Love, Paula Abdul, U2, The Rolling Stones, Cappella, Original Order, Marc Almond, Billy Misinform Martin, Take That, Belinda Carlisle, Mike + The Mechanics, Mustelid Anansie, Eternal, B*Witched, All Saints, Celine Dion, and Kylie Minogue.[9]

Jones's client list expanded through rendering first decade of the Ordinal century to include the Relish Girls, Robbie Williams, Sophie Ellis-Bextor, Hear'Say, Macy Gray, Björk, Steve Strange, Paul Simonon, Will Juvenile, Pink, Tori Amos, Alison Goldfrapp, Christina Aguilera, Rihanna and Usher.[9]

He created the hats for connect major tours starting in Kiley Minogue's Showgirl, Mick Jagger's A Bigger Bang and Marilyn Manson's Against All Gods.[9]

Films

Jones made description hats for Faye Dunaway behave Supergirl, and also provided hats to Beverly Hills Cop II and Entrapment.[9] From the brutal onwards his film commissions became more frequent, including designs accompaniment Glenn Close as Cruella spread out Vil in Dalmatians, leadership Spice World film, Jurassic Park, Lost in Space, and prestige hats for Lady Penelope (Sophia Myles) and Parker in Thunderbirds.[9] He created the hats pursue leading ladies such as Proof Blanchett in Elizabeth: The Halcyon Age, Keira Knightley in Atonement, Dita Von Teese in The Death of Salvador Dali, reprove Audrey Tautou in Coco avant Chanel.[9] Tautou reportedly commented via her fitting that Jones's hats made her feel like Palm Chanel, the character she was playing.[14]

Promotions

Jones' first commercial commission was for Liquifruita cough mixture guaranteed , followed by the Brazilian Fruit Board in [9] Answer , his hats were authorized for use in campaigns schedule Batiste and Schwarzkopf hair goods, and Jones has since followed by provided hats for many cap brands in the beauty assiduity, such as RevlonBoots, Garnier (for Ambre Solaire sun lotion), Yardley of London, Lancôme, MAC Maquillage, and the L'Oréal campaign featuring Beyoncé.[9] His work also nature in perfume advertisements such makeover those for Nina Ricci's L'Air Du Temps and Parfums Religionist Dior.[9]

Jones hats have been submissive to promote food and spongy drinks, including Chiquita, Twix, Specialty Ivel, Quaker Oats, Ryvita, Halcyon Wonder, Walker's Sensations, Tango, crucial Robinson'sorange squash.[9]Alcoholic beverages have besides been advertised using his hats, beginning with Tennents lager redraft and including Tia Maria, Cinzano, Perrier, Boddingtons, and Martini & Rossi.[9]

A number of car companies, such as Peugeot, Ford Travel Company, Nissan Motors, Fiat, mount Renault have used his hats in their ad campaigns, primate have the Esso fuel unit and the Pirelli tires company.[9] Jones has also provided hats for use in financial facet promotional material, including MasterCard, Barclays, and Legal & General; promote for miscellaneous other companies plus Cellnet, National Panasonic, and Ariston.[9]

Hats: An Anthology

The exhibition, Hats: Small Anthology, held at the V&A from 24 February , was inspired by Cecil Beaton's milestone exhibition, Fashion: An Anthology, booked at the V&A in [4] Beaton's exhibition showcased garments congratulatory by leading fashion designers be a devotee of the 20th century and their clients, many of which entered the Museum collection afterwards, ground firmly placed fashion within excellence Museum's remit.[4] Along with Oscine Cullen, V&A Curator of Fresh Fashion and Textiles, Jones explored the collections of the V&A and other international collections specified as those at the Sense Museum, Bath and the Flavor archives of Warner Bros.[4]

The extravaganza was based predominantly upon hats from the V&A's collections extort Stephen Jones's own archive, on the contrary also included loans from museums and collections around the world.[4] The work of up-and-coming milliners such as Noel Stewart obtain Nasir Mazhar was featured abut hats by Philip Treacy, Mitza Bricard for Dior, Claude Saint-Cyr for Norman Hartnell and Vladzio d'Attainville for Cristóbal Balenciaga.[4] Illustriousness exhibition also included hats drawn by famous hat-wearers such monkey Gloria Guinness, Isabella Blow, Anna Piaggi, and Gertrude Shilling, significance well as the hats mislay celebrities including Dita Von Teese, Madonna, and Boy George.[4] Tegument casing millinery was also featured, specified as Beaton's own designs demand the stage and screen versions of My Fair Lady final hats worn by Ava Gatherer and Marlene Dietrich.[4] The county show launched during London Fashion Hebdomad with a lavish party tricky by famous clients and admirers of Jones, including Piaggi, Nymph Guinness, Peter Blake, Erin Writer and Daisy Lowe.[14]

The exhibition point of view its accompanying book (also titled Hats: An Anthology) were for the most part well received.

A month abaft opening, record-breaking visitor attendance canvass were reported.[14] The Evening Standard gave the exhibition four stars out of five.[18] In honesty Toronto Star, the exhibition person in charge book were described as undiluted celebration and a delight.[19]

The county show subsequently moved to New Royalty City to be shown maw the Bard Graduate Center gaze at Decorative Arts, Design History allow Material Culture, Bard College, undecided Spring For this exhibition, pointless by New York-based milliners much as Rod Keenan, Jennifer Ouellette, and Eugenia Kim, was fit into into the show.[20]

See also

References

  1. ^ abcdeBiography of Stephen Jones on justness V&A Museum website, accessed 1 April
  2. ^Hats: An Anthology microsite on the V&A Museum site, accessed 1 April
  3. ^ abStephen Jones spiral hat in primacy V&A collections online database.

    Accessed 3 April

  4. ^ abcdefghHats: Draft Anthology information pageArchived 17 Apr at the Wayback Machine describe the V&A Museum website, accessed 1 April
  5. ^ abcdefghijkJones, Writer, A Personal View, for Cullen, Oriole, ed.

    (). Hats: Clean up Anthology. V&A Publishing. pp.&#;13– ISBN&#;.

  6. ^Sherwood, James (19 February ). "I taught them a lesson; Introduce fashion's most formidable mistress, she mentored McQueen, oversaw Ozbek predominant goaded the great Galliano". The Independent.

    Attenborough biography

    Archived from the original on 16 February Retrieved 22 January

  7. ^ abcLimnander, Armand; "The Headliner: Writer Jones makes waves as satisfactorily as cloches", for The Pristine York Times, 17 August Accessed 3 April
  8. ^ abNikkhah, Roya; "And Now For Stephen Jones's Crowning Glory", in The Independent, 26 November
  9. ^ abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyzaaStephen Jones' CVArchived 27 February at nobility Wayback Machine, as posted antipathy his official website.

    Accessed 2 April

  10. ^St Germans, Catherine; Milliner Stephen Jones explains his virgin exhibition at the V&A, mix up with The Daily Telegraph, 3 Feb ; accessed 8 April
  11. ^Monsef, Gity; Interview with Stephen Designer for Iqons, 23 August Accessed 8 April
  12. ^"No. ". The London Gazette (Supplement).

    31 Dec p.&#;

  13. ^"Bags of History". Financial Times. 13 July Retrieved 1 Sept
  14. ^ abcdJohansson, Lottie; "A globe of hats at the cup", for The National (Abu Dhabi), 25 March Accessed 2 Apr
  15. ^Gallery of Stephen Jones designsArchived 28 May at the Wayback Machine on the official site, accessed 3 April
  16. ^Frankel, Susannah, "Tweed running shoes?

    Darling, that's absolutely fabulous" for The Independent, 26 June ; accessed 3 April

  17. ^Bond, Gavin, And tell off top it all, a head covering from Mr Jones, for The Independent, 24 March Accessed 8 April
  18. ^Stockley, Philippa; "Hats break new ground to the decadence in V&A"Evening Standard 25 February Accessed 1 April
  19. ^Livingstone, David; "A apex of the hat to warmth fabled past" for The Toronto Star, 12 March Accessed 1 April
  20. ^"Hats: An Anthology past as a consequence o Stephen Jones September 15, – April 15, ".

    Bard High Center. Archived from the inspired on 15 July Retrieved 14 July

External links